I wouldn’t blame you if you can’t spot Coorg or Kodagu on the map or in the yellow pages. Most can’t. It’s only when you actually meet good-looking Coorgi girls (or guys) that you bother to ‘google’ this southern Karnataka district. And I don’t mean Nikhil Chinnapa or Ashwini Nachappa.
We started out early morning in a cramped Qualis. Driving on the Mysore bypass road, we passed Nagarhole National Park. The drive through the park was more of a wildlife safari than a regular drive. From Mysore, two hours later, we reached our homestay in Kutta in Coorg district.
As you enter Coorg, the smell changes. I’m just kidding. It doesn’t. Seeing all the coffee plantations, you do wishfully imagine the whiff of a cup of brewed bitter Robusta and Arabica.
The best time to visit Coorg, or Kodagu, is after September when winter sets in. But, plan a visit in the rains. That way you can avoid the hordes of silicon millionaires from Bangalore who swamp all its resorts, homestays and lodges. What’s more, accommodation is cheaper during the monsoon. Even summers are as pleasant as Mumbai is in winter.
The weather is very English. It rains anytime and soaks you well. By the time you grope around for your umbrella, it stops, as good ol’ Murphy would have it.
Wake up and smell the coffee...
Coorg’s cold climate is also perfect for growing coffee and stimulants of other kinds. This I realized after meeting our homestay owner, Bopanna, whom I mistakenly referred to as “Dopeanna” on several occasions.
Bopanna ushered us into two cottages—a bamboo hut and an old Coorgi house facing the coffee plantations and paddy fields. In the room, an old photo frame generally used for Hindu gods had a poster of Bob Marley smoking a bob. The room was an old wooden tiled Coorgi house, unlike the mundane perfection of tour packages.
It was unusually quiet even for a homestay. Not even a dog’s bark. Which reminds me, most Coorgis keep dogs, almost always a German Shepherd or Rottweiler. There was a stray dog around but the leopard ate it, Bopanna said. There are wild boars too. Try to shoot them only if you are a good shot. Else that might be the last shot with your manhood intact. These aggressive animals are known to run between the legs with their sharp tusks. Of course, you’d be shooting with a double-barrel gun. Every Coorgi has one.
The British conferred martial tribe status on certain ruling communities: Sikhs, Gorkhas, Marathas, Rajputs and Kodavas (Coorgis). The Kodavas got a special right to carry guns without a license anywhere in India just like the Sikhs were allowed to carry swords. In return, the Brits got a home away from home, an excellent place to hunt, and of course, Indian pork curry.
Sight-seeing is not just limited to coffee. From Kutta town, you can drive down to Iruppu for a bath in a waterfall and a good laugh at the jokers wearing sweaters. Not far away is also a place for white-water rafting in grade four rapids. Also, a good place to visit is Dubare for its elephant training camps where you can conclude that education is bad for animals too.
Iruppu falls
Can't bunk this one - Elephant training class at Dubare
In Coorg, one of the places to visit is Bylakuppe near Kushal Nagar, known for its Tibetan settlement and the Golden Temple—the largest Tibetan monastery outside Tibet. Housed are 60-feet statues of the Buddha and Padmasambhava. The eyes of one of the figures stare violently at you, an intense meditative look.
Buddha along with Padmasambhava at Golden Temple in Bylakuppe
The monks who sold their Ferraris
Don’t forget to try the steaming momos in the restaurants outside. And if you survive, spend some time watching your friends shop for Tibetan flags, mugs, jewellery and other useless things.
Being a vegetarian, I surprisingly had a good time at the homestay in Coorg. We felt like guests in somebody’s house, not a guest house. Food included fresh mushroom from the estate, pork and chicken gravy, eggs, bamboo shoots, spicy mango sambhar, rice dumplings, dosas and ghee rice.
I'm the rainbow dude...
Language is diverse in Coorg. You can count at least five different dialects and languages spoken including Coorgi, Kannada, Malayalam, and some tribal dialects. The Coorgis, believed to be descendants of a Central Asian Iranian tribe who came in with Alexander, speak a language that is similar to Malayalam.
Coorg
Location : Western Ghats, Karnataka, Southern India.
Time to Visit : Between September and March, it is best time to visit Coorg.
Weather : Coorg experiences moderate climate with pleasant winters, warm summers and heavy monsoon.
Known For : Scenic Beauty.
Coorg or Kodagu
A philosopher's dreamland, Coorg is located on the on the Western Ghats of Karnataka. Its rich flora and fauna has earned this place international recognition. The well preserved biodiversity of this place is a tourist trapper. The maiden mountains and retreating rain forests has been woven very well by mother nature, making it a choicest location.
Coorg was originally an English Settlement with rich coffee estates and pepper & cardamom plantations. The enthralling journey to the scenic surrounds of this spots will orient you to the diverse life that inhibits here. A large number of farms and gardens with flowering beauty set in a perfect way and provide a perfect stay for the eco tourists.
Eco-Tourism in Coorg
The Scotland of India lies 252 km off Bangalore and is dense forested steep hill. Misty hills, blinding fog, lush forests, orange grooves and breathtaking views of the valley makes it a perfect eco-tourism destination. The most important of all is Nagarhole National Park which is a treasure trove of exquiste wildlife of Coorg. A number of rivers like Cauvery, originate from this place making river rafting and white water adventure more joyous.
Nagarhole National Park
Home for fawny black stripped Royal Bengal Tiger, Nagarhole National Park is a biosphere reserve in Nilgiri Hills. Majestic roar of lions and tall standing trees stretches through a series of hills and protected forests. Waters from river Kabini drenches most of the area here and harbors fishes. Besides tigers, Nilgiri tahr, Nilgiri langur, bison, leopard, Asian elephant, wild boar, deer, dhole (wild dog) and porcupines forms the fauna here.
Valanoor
Valanoor is situated 30km from Mercara which is the backwaters of Cauvery. This place is a perfect angling destination of Karnataka. Exquisite variety of fishes are found here which are worth a catch. Golden Masheer, Maral amd Maap are few fishes that are found here.
Harangi Dam
Around 6km from the Madikeri Kushlanagar Road is the Harangi Dam. The Harangi river forms a huge reservoir that looks beautiful. It is a nice place for a picnic lunches and leisurely stroll.
Durbare
The elephant training capturing and training camp of Forest department, Durbare, lies on the banks of Krishna river. Dubare is a big bath tub for elephants that rest here in the evening after day's work. This captivating scenic surroundings with an interesting elephant orchestra, lures a large number of tourists. If you are able to impress the local trainer, you can enjoy a free elephant ride or can pay a very nominalamount.
Waterfalls in Coorg
Iruppu Falls
Towards south of Coorg, Iruppu is a sacred spot and a bewitching waterfall. These magistic falls are believed to have drop out of a arrow that was shot by Laxmana while searching water for his brother Rama in great Hindu epic, Ramayana. The paddy field that surround this place look picturesque and add to the beauty of this place.
Abbey Falls
One of the famous waterfalls of India, Abbey Falls lies 8km off Medikeri. Water gushing down the rocks looks mesmerizing. There are a few coffee and cardamom plantations around this place which adds to the beauty of this picturesque waterfall.
Green Getaway From Coorg
Madikere
A well known hill station in Coorg, can be an exciting get away destination. There are large number of tourist places in Madikere that dot the region and provide for excellent relaxation amidst scenic surrounds. Raja Seat is a well maintained garden with breathtaking views of the green hills. Abbi Falls, Bhaga Mandala and Tala Kaveri are few other places of Interest that can be visited here.
Shopping at Coorg
Coorg offers a large number of handicraft items that can be bought as a remembrance of this bewitching place. Hand woven and embroidered clothes with bamboo baskets and jute bags, the shopping list is endless here. The shopping area is located at a very accessible point. You may find different kinds of stone crafted items which can be bought at a very negligible price.
Reaching Coorg
Coorg sets in complete natural surroundings without an inch of railway track or an air base. The only way is through roads. Although you may take flights or board at trains that enroute Mysore. Innumerable state transport buses ply from Coorg or Kadagu at regular intervals.
Air : Mysore and Mangalore are the two airports nearest to Coorg. You can take private cabs or coaches that are destined at Coorg. Prepaid taxi centers, run by State Government, are available outside the airport. It is always advisable to fix your price before you start with your journey.
Rail : Mysore, Mangalore and Hassan are three railheads that are nearest to Coorg. These railheads are accessible from almost every part of India. Taxis from railway station can be hired to reach Coorg.
Road : The lifeline of Coorg, it is the only way you can head this place. Innumerable coaches and cabs are available for the easy commutation for the tourists. Moving Around in Coorg The hilly area of Coorg is full of twisting and turning paths which makes it inaccessible via rail or airways. The only way to move around Coorg is on foot while for long distances, private jeeps can be hired which are available at very nominal charges.
Green Hotel in Coorg
A stay at the Rainforest Retreat is an unforgettable experience for eco tourists. It is a beautiful brook-side bungalow, set in thick bamboo, banana, orange and pineapple plantations and conforms to international standards of style and comfort. The hotel has two bedrooms, a spacious living room, sit-out and perhaps the best rain forest loo. A second, more rustic shelter is the Yin-Yang Cottage inside the coffee plantation. This picturesque resort provides ample recreational and relaxation options, amidst the green surroundings of Coorg. These two resorts are choicest for tourists.
Time to Visit : Between September and March, it is best time to visit Coorg.
Weather : Coorg experiences moderate climate with pleasant winters, warm summers and heavy monsoon.
Known For : Scenic Beauty.
Coorg or Kodagu
A philosopher's dreamland, Coorg is located on the on the Western Ghats of Karnataka. Its rich flora and fauna has earned this place international recognition. The well preserved biodiversity of this place is a tourist trapper. The maiden mountains and retreating rain forests has been woven very well by mother nature, making it a choicest location.Coorg was originally an English Settlement with rich coffee estates and pepper & cardamom plantations. The enthralling journey to the scenic surrounds of this spots will orient you to the diverse life that inhibits here. A large number of farms and gardens with flowering beauty set in a perfect way and provide a perfect stay for the eco tourists.
Eco-Tourism in Coorg
The Scotland of India lies 252 km off Bangalore and is dense forested steep hill. Misty hills, blinding fog, lush forests, orange grooves and breathtaking views of the valley makes it a perfect eco-tourism destination. The most important of all is Nagarhole National Park which is a treasure trove of exquiste wildlife of Coorg. A number of rivers like Cauvery, originate from this place making river rafting and white water adventure more joyous.
Nagarhole National Park
Home for fawny black stripped Royal Bengal Tiger, Nagarhole National Park is a biosphere reserve in Nilgiri Hills. Majestic roar of lions and tall standing trees stretches through a series of hills and protected forests. Waters from river Kabini drenches most of the area here and harbors fishes. Besides tigers, Nilgiri tahr, Nilgiri langur, bison, leopard, Asian elephant, wild boar, deer, dhole (wild dog) and porcupines forms the fauna here.
Valanoor
Valanoor is situated 30km from Mercara which is the backwaters of Cauvery. This place is a perfect angling destination of Karnataka. Exquisite variety of fishes are found here which are worth a catch. Golden Masheer, Maral amd Maap are few fishes that are found here.
Harangi Dam
Around 6km from the Madikeri Kushlanagar Road is the Harangi Dam. The Harangi river forms a huge reservoir that looks beautiful. It is a nice place for a picnic lunches and leisurely stroll.
Durbare
The elephant training capturing and training camp of Forest department, Durbare, lies on the banks of Krishna river. Dubare is a big bath tub for elephants that rest here in the evening after day's work. This captivating scenic surroundings with an interesting elephant orchestra, lures a large number of tourists. If you are able to impress the local trainer, you can enjoy a free elephant ride or can pay a very nominalamount.
Waterfalls in Coorg
Iruppu Falls
Towards south of Coorg, Iruppu is a sacred spot and a bewitching waterfall. These magistic falls are believed to have drop out of a arrow that was shot by Laxmana while searching water for his brother Rama in great Hindu epic, Ramayana. The paddy field that surround this place look picturesque and add to the beauty of this place.
Abbey Falls
One of the famous waterfalls of India, Abbey Falls lies 8km off Medikeri. Water gushing down the rocks looks mesmerizing. There are a few coffee and cardamom plantations around this place which adds to the beauty of this picturesque waterfall.
Green Getaway From Coorg
Madikere
A well known hill station in Coorg, can be an exciting get away destination. There are large number of tourist places in Madikere that dot the region and provide for excellent relaxation amidst scenic surrounds. Raja Seat is a well maintained garden with breathtaking views of the green hills. Abbi Falls, Bhaga Mandala and Tala Kaveri are few other places of Interest that can be visited here.
Shopping at Coorg
Coorg offers a large number of handicraft items that can be bought as a remembrance of this bewitching place. Hand woven and embroidered clothes with bamboo baskets and jute bags, the shopping list is endless here. The shopping area is located at a very accessible point. You may find different kinds of stone crafted items which can be bought at a very negligible price.
Reaching Coorg
Coorg sets in complete natural surroundings without an inch of railway track or an air base. The only way is through roads. Although you may take flights or board at trains that enroute Mysore. Innumerable state transport buses ply from Coorg or Kadagu at regular intervals.
Air : Mysore and Mangalore are the two airports nearest to Coorg. You can take private cabs or coaches that are destined at Coorg. Prepaid taxi centers, run by State Government, are available outside the airport. It is always advisable to fix your price before you start with your journey.
Rail : Mysore, Mangalore and Hassan are three railheads that are nearest to Coorg. These railheads are accessible from almost every part of India. Taxis from railway station can be hired to reach Coorg.
Road : The lifeline of Coorg, it is the only way you can head this place. Innumerable coaches and cabs are available for the easy commutation for the tourists. Moving Around in Coorg The hilly area of Coorg is full of twisting and turning paths which makes it inaccessible via rail or airways. The only way to move around Coorg is on foot while for long distances, private jeeps can be hired which are available at very nominal charges.
Green Hotel in Coorg
A stay at the Rainforest Retreat is an unforgettable experience for eco tourists. It is a beautiful brook-side bungalow, set in thick bamboo, banana, orange and pineapple plantations and conforms to international standards of style and comfort. The hotel has two bedrooms, a spacious living room, sit-out and perhaps the best rain forest loo. A second, more rustic shelter is the Yin-Yang Cottage inside the coffee plantation. This picturesque resort provides ample recreational and relaxation options, amidst the green surroundings of Coorg. These two resorts are choicest for tourists.
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